What a great ride! This was the first day on the trip without major precip, we got maybe five drops on us in the afternoon, but the entire storm was about one cloud, we got out from under it quickly.
We started very early this morning, out the door around 6. It doesn't really feel early up here. The solstice was yesterday so there was barely any dark last night and we're both still living in a more eastern time zone. It was cold and foggy but nothing was coming down so we counted our blessings and headed out.
Within the first hour and a half after leaving Fort Nelson we saw almost every large mammal in Canada! First we saw a black bear (the first of many!) I thought it was a log at first, before it turned it's head to look at us then ran for the tree-line. Then a moose standing in the road, then a mountain goat sauntering down the opposite shoulder, and at last a caribou, who loped his gangly self out of our way as we passed.
The terrain took a turn towards the awesome. As we climbed up into the foothills the road grew narrow and twisty. It was the rally section at last! We spent most of the day rolling through beautiful country, through mountains and valleys, over rivers, and past beautiful crystal lakes. Peaks like Stone Mountain thrust their rocky tops against the sky on either side. It made up for the flatlands we'd gone through in Kansas, Montana, and Alberta.
We also figured out the limits of my gas tank. A lot of roadhouses on the Alaskan Highway are either seasonal, or have just shut down in recent years. Near the end of the day we hit a long dry spell for gas, every spot we went passed had closed up shop. We knew there'd be gas in Teslin, but we weren't sure if my bike would make it. Before long my engine started to sputter so we pulled over and busted out the emergency tanks. Very glad dad packed those! We wound up being only 2 clicks out from the next spot, but I couldn't have coasted that far through the hills.
Woody and Christopher ride from Mustang Oklahoma to the Arctic Circle and back via motorcycles. A 21-Day adventure through the Great Northwest, Canada, and Alaska.
Showing posts with label British Columbia. Show all posts
Showing posts with label British Columbia. Show all posts
Thursday, June 23, 2011
Wednesday, June 22, 2011
In Which Rivers are Crossed
Assume this posted yesterday, the 21st (didn't have a connection at Ft. Nelson).
We finished early today, rolling into our stop early in the afternoon. It was beautiful this morning in Dawson's Creek, cool but sunny. The town is actually mile 0 of the Alaskan Highway, which we'll ride all the way to Fairbanks. We climbed out of town into the wooded ridges of BC. The Rockies made an appearance again, pulling into view like an old friend. The peaks weren't as high as the ones we'd seen back in the States, the snowy crags were softened by lush forest, the last of the snow; gleaming in the high ridges.
We rode the low foothills of the peaks along avenues cut through the woodland. At times we would dip into valleys cut by huge rivers. We crossed the Peace River early in the day, sweeping along the curve of the valley, over the long steel bridge, then back up into the hills.
The dichotomy between the old forest and the new growth planted after the loggers had passed through is striking. Like a bad shave, the grassland ends in sudden woods a hundred feet high.
A few hours into our ride the sky clouded up again. We spent the rest of the day running in and out of the rain.
My weak American rain gear is insufficient against the might of Canadian socialised weather. I feel like I'm beating a dead horse about my boots, the rain, et al. So from now on understand that if I mention rain then, I probably got wet on the road. Not that it makes a huge difference, I've got electric pants.
We're staying at the Woodlands Inn & Suites, which seems a little schizophrenic, but really nice. The halls are all painted cinderblock, I can only assume it's to keep everything from getting mildew in the winter. The rooms are all very nice, and the restaurant is very posh!
We finished early today, rolling into our stop early in the afternoon. It was beautiful this morning in Dawson's Creek, cool but sunny. The town is actually mile 0 of the Alaskan Highway, which we'll ride all the way to Fairbanks. We climbed out of town into the wooded ridges of BC. The Rockies made an appearance again, pulling into view like an old friend. The peaks weren't as high as the ones we'd seen back in the States, the snowy crags were softened by lush forest, the last of the snow; gleaming in the high ridges.
We rode the low foothills of the peaks along avenues cut through the woodland. At times we would dip into valleys cut by huge rivers. We crossed the Peace River early in the day, sweeping along the curve of the valley, over the long steel bridge, then back up into the hills.
The dichotomy between the old forest and the new growth planted after the loggers had passed through is striking. Like a bad shave, the grassland ends in sudden woods a hundred feet high.
A few hours into our ride the sky clouded up again. We spent the rest of the day running in and out of the rain.
My weak American rain gear is insufficient against the might of Canadian socialised weather. I feel like I'm beating a dead horse about my boots, the rain, et al. So from now on understand that if I mention rain then, I probably got wet on the road. Not that it makes a huge difference, I've got electric pants.
We're staying at the Woodlands Inn & Suites, which seems a little schizophrenic, but really nice. The halls are all painted cinderblock, I can only assume it's to keep everything from getting mildew in the winter. The rooms are all very nice, and the restaurant is very posh!
Monday, June 20, 2011
Riders on the Storm
Edmonton flooded today. I know because I drove through it. Today was probably the wettest day of our trip so far, although it lacked the mind-boggling fury of Friday. It rained on us the first few hours of the day, and I discovered a flaw in my rain gear. If you throw enough water at my shoes the moisture will creep around the tongue and flood the boot. So I spent the day with a squishy step. C'est la vie! I deserve a merit badge or something.
We quickly got away from the fields around Edmonton and up into the wooded hills that formed the backdrop for most of the day. The highways we took were cut through the Canadian forest, and while there were many signs warning of moose crossing I never caught sight of any of the hairy beasts. The weather let up shortly before lunch, so I took a moment when we stopped at Whitecourt for lunch to empty as much water as I could from my shoes. Our food options weren't very good. It was mostly chains, but we found a little hole-in-the-wall Chinese buffet on our way out of town. It was mostly edible. We were happy just to have some time to dry off, so the food almost didn't matter! As we rode up the ridges we would catch glimpses of the forest stretching out around us. It was really quite beautiful, and love the chance to explore these forests again.
We reached British Columbia by early afternoon, and entered the Pacific time zone. Dawson's Creek was only half an hour over the border. I was very glad to get my wet boots off! This town is mile zero for the Alaskan Highway, which we'll be following all the way back to the US.
We quickly got away from the fields around Edmonton and up into the wooded hills that formed the backdrop for most of the day. The highways we took were cut through the Canadian forest, and while there were many signs warning of moose crossing I never caught sight of any of the hairy beasts. The weather let up shortly before lunch, so I took a moment when we stopped at Whitecourt for lunch to empty as much water as I could from my shoes. Our food options weren't very good. It was mostly chains, but we found a little hole-in-the-wall Chinese buffet on our way out of town. It was mostly edible. We were happy just to have some time to dry off, so the food almost didn't matter! As we rode up the ridges we would catch glimpses of the forest stretching out around us. It was really quite beautiful, and love the chance to explore these forests again.
We reached British Columbia by early afternoon, and entered the Pacific time zone. Dawson's Creek was only half an hour over the border. I was very glad to get my wet boots off! This town is mile zero for the Alaskan Highway, which we'll be following all the way back to the US.
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